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More interested in stage design than studying, he became involved with the Footlights Dramatic Club. ’ asked a reviewer in the London Evening Standard. Hartnell decided on a career in fashion and was employed briefly at court outfitters Madame Desiree. On 23 April 1923 – St George’s Day – he decided that he would go it alone. With ‘£300, a box of paints and the enthusiasm of ignorance’, Hartnell opened a salon on Bruton Street in London’s Mayfair. Hartnell was already in demand as a society couturier, and his royal association began with an invitation to design the wedding dress for Lady Alice Montagu-Douglas-Scott, whose bridesmaids were to include the young princesses Margaret and elizabeth – the future Queen elizabeth II.

When they saw it appear, the audience foresaw the end of the play… Thenceforth, I was established chez Doucet and in all of Paris,’ he recalled. When Poiret left Doucet in 1900 he was already head of the tailoring department; moving to the House of Worth, he was employed specifically to design simple practical garments to counterpoint the extravagant signature pieces. With the knowledge gleaned from his time at Doucet and Worth, Poiret founded his own house in 1903. He married Denise Boulet, who would become both his muse and his artistic director.

Financed by her wealthy businessman boyfriend, Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel, Chanel initially became a milliner, opening a shop near the Ritz. She progressed to sportswear in Deauville in 1913 and couture in Biarritz, opening her couture salon in Paris in 1918. Chanel’s iconic perfume, Chanel no5, was formulated in 1921. With a genius for publicity that matched her aptitude for creating irresistible clothes, such was Chanel’s popularity on both sides of the Channel that she opened her first London house in 1927.

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Allure (April 2015)


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